GENERAL GORDON FIRES UP AGAIN

The indomitable General Gordon Hotel has reopened after the multi-million-dollar makeover that followed its defeat by fire nearly three years’ ago.

Sydenham’s large-format and beloved General has been reborn in a way that pays tribute to its theatrical and tumultuous past.

Mid-2018 news broke that the inner-western icon adjacent to Sydenham Train Station had been badly damaged by a fire, which collapsed the roof, scorched neighbouring buildings, stopped trains and saw the General lie in ruins.

Image: Dulwich Hill resident Angel Ioannou

The following months saw extensive discussion with local planning authorities and decision to include restoration of the pub’s heritage façade in the rebuild.

A Trust controlled by White & Partners purchased the pub in 2017 for just north of $18 million, taking JDA Hotels on as operators.

Nearing completion on the restoration, the asset was presented for sale to a handful of select candidates – including JDA – who went on to top the short list and take the quiet freehold for approximately $30 million.

The “GG” takes its name from renowned military hero General Charles George Gordon. Its sympathetic revival pays homage to its origins as well as its misfortunes, seen in the incorporation of charred wood features in both the front and back bars in memory of the fire, and a painstaking refresh of the original heritage façade.

“This building has had such a rich and chequered history, so we’ve worked hard to acknowledge this through subtle nods to its remarkable journey,” offers Sarah Lewis, licensee and inner-west resident.

The General was in fact one of the first pubs in Sydney to have a female licensee – Bridget Smith. In 2021 it reopens under the wing of two strong females. Lewis’ 25 years in hospitality will be accompanied by the 25 years brought by head chef Kirsten Baker, who has been wielding the tools in the likes of Merivale’s Vic on The Park.

The menu is based in pub classics with a focus on local produce, and headlined by “The General’s Oven” – a wood-fired feature of the kitchen, for pizzas and an array of house dishes, such as succulent 12-Hour beef short rib, and wood-roasted pumpkin maple and lime quinoa. Non-meat-eaters are catered for with the likes of Blistered ox heart tomato with goats’ cheese, or the Vegan chickpea and sweet potato patty.

Inside the General are found several distinct spaces, designed by AVA Architects. A big focus is the alfresco courtyard, sheltered by a sculptural pergola dripping with lush greenery for an “Instaworthy” space that can be enjoyed in any weather.

A modern sports bar echoes the old-style public bar, rocking Terrazzo floor tiles and historic memorabilia on timber walls. This connects to the bright and welcoming bistro area, full of eclectic furniture and styling to promote relaxed dining.

Upstairs there are eight accommodation rooms, requiring guests to traverse stairs lined with colourful images to modern, compact, comfortable spaces spiced with their own quirkiness through use of plush linen and bright bathrooms in contemporary finishes.

John and Dean Feros

Owned and operated by the Feros family, JDA Hotels currently counts nine venues and boasts a 50-year legacy in hospitality. CEO John Feros says he is proud to be reinstating a local hero after a tough battle.

“The devastation from the fire, combined with the lengthy renovation, has been a challenge for our team and the local community.

“The re-opening signifies a fresh and positive start for The General Gordon, and one that JDA Hotels is incredibly honoured to be behind, given the pub’s rich history and iconic standpoint within the community.”

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