In Innovation by Clyde Mooney

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Merivale has opened the reinvention of its former Papi Chulo in Manly Wharf, unveiling Cantonese concept Queen Chow.

The venue is headed up by the duo behind Queen Chow Enmore, Patrick Friesen and Eric Koh, offering a classic neighbourhood Cantonese menu that celebrates great Australian produce.

Patrick Friesen

Furthering the success of Queen Chow Enmore, Friesen took inspiration from Hong Kong’s famous ‘dai pai dongs’ (open air food stall), but with an appropriate beachside twist, and plenty of Australian seafood.

Hero is the dim sum stylings of the acclaimed Koh, bringing 35 years’ experience including tenures at Mr. Wong and London’s Michelin-starred Hakkasan and Yauatcha. Coming steamed, baked or fried are options such as scallop and prawn siu mai, prawn har gau, jade seafood, wild mushroom, pork xiao long bao and egg custard tarts.

The menu also embraces the ‘nostalgia’ of classic Chinese restaurants across Australia, with very familiar sticky honey king prawns, Mongolian lamb sang choi bao, and deep-fried ice cream with butterscotch sauce.

The drinks menu takes inspiration from the cuisine, incorporating fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices found in the kitchen. The wine list by Franck Moreau and Adrian Filiuta sees a selection of more than 200 classic, organic, biodynamic and premium wines from around Australia and the world.

Enjoying spectacular views of Sydney Harbour, Queen Chow is elegant yet casual, with the bones of the former Papi Chulo updated with deep green timbers and marble, and a tank of live fish at the entrance.

“We want to create a place that echoes the sentiment of neighbourhood Chinese restaurants of years past, where people come often and with the people they love the most,” says Friesen.

“Your local Chinese, with all the favourites, cooked beautifully.”

Queen Chow opened to the public 9 July.