Patrons seeking an all-round pub experience in the heart of Sydney’s The Rocks will be able to dine, drink, stay and be entertained as the Fortune of War expands, upgrades and resumes.
The Fortune of War, built in 1828, is Sydney’s oldest continuously licensed public hotel. Its moniker derives from it being a favourite final stop for servicemen en-route to ‘seek their fortunes’ in WWI and WWII.
On the basis that the entire building was “in need of a little love” family-owned WDS Hotels opted to update everything at once and build for the future.
Front and centre will be the public bar, with its high ceilings and original windows overlooking George St and cobblestone Globe St, along with an open-plan kitchen, both open every day.
WDS principal, veteran Steve ‘Speedy’ Speed, took over the leasehold in 2013 with his wife, Fiona, and says the old landmark had outgrown its space.
“We’re very much a food and beverage pub, but due to the small size of the kitchen, we haven’t been able to provide our dream dining experience for guests, until now,” he says.
Taking up residence in the adjoining heritage-listed spaces previously occupied by Push Bar and two retail stores will be the 60-seat Bistro 1828, named in honour of the year the pub was built, by former convict Samuel Terry.
Classics and Fortune of War signature dishes such as Fish ‘n’ Chips and Beef & Guinness Stew will continue to take pride of place, but executive chef Mark Williamson, formerly of Bistro Moncur, says he plans to “slightly elevate the menu”.
“We want this to be a true representation of a classic Aussie pub.”
The new menu will be available throughout the pub, but only the bistro will take reservations.
Adding to the overhaul, there will now also be a breakfast offering.
“The kitchen will operate from 7am to 9.30pm, seven days a week,” explains Williamson.
During COVID the Fortune’s accommodation closed. Reopening from May, in time for this year’s Vivid festival, Russell Boutique Hotel is already taking bookings, promising a “home-away-from-home experience” filled with timeless charm.
Each of the 28 rooms boasts its own unique, Australiana feel, and many also offer partial views of Sydney Harbour.
The original pub main bar is currently closed, in the process of getting an uplifted look that includes new carpet and paint, and loving restoration of its 100-year-old red oak bar, but food, drinks and live entertainment are available in the expansive outdoor area and the neighbouring Lock Up.
Speed says old-fashioned hospitality is a ‘core value’ of his group and in light of the comprehensive changes, the Fortune will continue to operate the same as it has for years.
“We’re a country pub in the heart of the city. Everything from the service to the style and character is reminiscent of what you’d find in a regional area.
“It’s a place steeped in history, and now more people than ever will be able to enjoy it, whether they’re sitting at the historic hamper bar, relaxing in the bistro, enjoying the alfresco dining area, staying at the new boutique hotel accommodation, or enjoying all four.”
