The Nissen family has unveiled its elegant reworking of Glebe’s iconic Australian Youth Hotel, bringing its history up to date with a new look and local moniker.
A hotel was first built on the site on Bay Street, which divides Glebe and Ultimo, back in 1862 as the Australian Youth Inn, in recognition of the emerging colony and the precinct’s increasing significance as part of Sydney’s bustling harbourside.
In May 2012 the Nissens bought the old local, which boasted a strong reputation for its foodservice, despite its name misleading many in recent times to think it was pitched toward backpackers.
In recognition of the ongoing gentrification of Sydney’s inner west, the decision was made to reinvest into the business, bringing it in line with a greater audience.
The seven-month makeover has involved extensive work at street level and below ground, headlined by Stables Bar & Grill, set in the mezzanine level of the building’s original but reimagined stables, and steered by British chef Ben Allcock. This includes the new indoor-outdoor dining space, adorned with design features and lighting, and a menu of mostly pub classics but to gastro standard.
Also new is the gaming room, amenities, beer garden, and kitchen, plus a new cellar. Upstairs, the function room – named Nude, in honour of stories the space was used in the 60s as a brothel – has not changed, and remains busy.
The new look was undertaken by Sydney-based pub specialist designers Alexander & Co.
Zelman Nissen says the pub is “pretty much family-run”, with his brother Daniel the licensee, himself operations and mum and sis doing accounts and HR. They wanted the new venue to reflect this hands-on feel and local colour, prompting the new name.
“We really wanted to position ourselves better in the community. We did our very best to maintain many of the original elements of the pub, but a lot of areas were looking really tired. I think we’ve got a really good balance now between maintaining those traditional elements and freshening up those areas that really needed a bit of attention.”
Embracing Glebe’s history, work was secured by local photographers Leon Gregory and Tom Psomotragos of the people of the suburb and the pub in the 1970s. These and some vintage prints from the early 1900s adorn the bar, along with a striking jacaranda mural painted by local artist Indigo Jo to tie in the modern.
Better described now as a ‘gastropub’ with local flavour, including taps pouring nearby breweries such as Wayward, Grifter and Young Henrys, Nissen says his family “loves the traditional side” of pubs and they are continuing an operational style carried on from their previous hotel, Paddington’s (former) Durty Nellys.
“A pub’s the place where people can come and enjoy themselves,” he explains.
“You can really create an environment for them to feel welcome and secure, and that’s kind of what we like offering, that ‘open door for everybody’.”
